Successfully completing an alpine climb is like obtaining a degree. First of all, you need to learn and practice a lot of different skills. Then you can combine them and test whether they can work in the real environment. Learning schedules include: rock climbing, ice climbing, field survival, meteorology, and even graduate-level psychology. Everything is sloppy, because the graduation exam on the mountain is the most rigorous, where there is no solid protection point, there is no comfortable weather wearing a T-shirt, and there is no buffer protection.
Qualification requirements: ice rock technology
Before you begin to venture into the mountains, you must first master the rock mechanics. Requests for quick action, erection of equipment (equipment), and carrying a backpack. To put it simply, if you have no backpacking and the traditional climbing technique is up to 5.10, then in the mountains, you can only consider the situation below 5.6. Maybe it's a little demeaning, but in reality the simple difficulty level doesn't take into account loose or wet rocks, ice shells on rocks, snow-capped rocks, and many other unforeseen difficulties.
Ice is the link between the high mountains and the world, and its solidity is constantly changing, from hard blue ice to sugar-like ice dregs. You must be familiar with grasping its various forms.
A good way to increase this experience and fill in the gaps is to go out and look for all kinds of ice conditions that you will always respect, and practice with top rope protection. For example, in the sun where the ice surface becomes loose, you can try to use a shovel head (in the case of soft ice, than the crane mouth leverage) to climb, experience both positive and negative effects, but pay attention to avoid those that may collapse immediately Ice. If you can find such a low-angle hill, you can try to rise by kicking ice without crampons; if the soft snow surface is not deep enough, you can knock out the steps. Practice climbing with only one hail. Almost all winter conditions can be used as training venues. If conditions are limited, you can also practice self-braking on the slopes of the ski, deadman, snow cone settings, crossing on frozen lakes and rivers, and practicing glacial walking. Anyone can learn these techniques.
speed
In mountain climbing, the number and quality of protection points are certainly not the same as those during normal climbing. The reason is not only that it is difficult to find suitable protection points, but also that it is not allowed in time. Wasting time setting a lot of protection may lead to different results: You could have sat in a tent and appreciate the afternoon storm, but now you can only nail it on the rock wall and let the thunder and lightning rush around you.
Alpine equipment should be efficient, with some rock plugs, mechanical plugs, and ice cones, and if necessary, risking an unprotected climb. If you can't rest assured that you are moving boldly without a lot of protection, you should give up climbing.
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